2012年6月15日星期五

Raising the Bayou

Quite a few bars in New Orleans are open 24 hours a day, but everyone has their breaking point. Luckily two new hotels are scheduled for December. The boutique hotelier Klaus Ortlieb will reopen Le Cirque as the 135-room Hotel Modern New Orleans (936 St. Charles Avenue; 504-962-0900), where the guys behind Cure will devise the lobby bar’s menu and the rising local chef Dominique Macquet will run a Vietnamese-French restaurant. And midmonth, the Saint Hotel (931 Canal Street; 504-522-5400) will open in a beautiful 102-year-old building at the edge of the Quarter.

Nothing causes New Orleanians to wake up in night sweats like the prospect of their beloved city turning into a Houston or an Atlanta or some other well-adjusted city. Of course, there is little to be gained by becoming a quaint still life, either, and it is this tension — between adopting from the outside and holding on to what makes New Orleans what it is — that has governed the past six years of recovery. While the city itself is still trying to find the balance NHL Jerseys, a wave of new cocktail bars, gastropubs and hotels are striking it in their own way.

Housed in a former firehouse on a dimly lit corner in the Uptown neighborhood NHL Jerseys, Cure (4905 Freret Street; 504-302-2357) is TriBeCa on the Mississippi. Ambitious in its mixology and earnestly hip in its presentation, the bar serves Jamaican meat pies and baked crabcakes alongside a cocktail menu heavy on house-made bitters. Cure is among the first of the city’s new craft cocktail bars, and its peers are plenty, including the retro-styled Bouligny Tavern (3641 Magazine Street; 504-891-1810), which has clever drinks like the Sage Julep and refined bar food. The more adventurous can head to the barely marked Twelve Mile Limit (500 South Telemachus Street; 504-488-8114) in Mid-City, owned by a bartender formerly of Coquette, one of the city’s upscale bistros. Inside it looks like a proper dive — jukebox, pool table NHL Jerseys, well-worn sofa — but one that makes inventive cocktails, barbecue-inspired cuisine and superb doberge cake. The French Quarter is generally avoided by the young and cool, but then came Sylvain (625 Chartres Street; 504-265-8123), where locals go for comfortable cuisine done smartly, like porchetta po’ boys. There’s music, too, a short stroll downriver at Three Muses (536 Frenchmen Street; 504-298-8746), where you can order a Spaghetti Western — Bourbon, orange-infused Campari and rosemary syrup — and listen to a tattooed lady sing Bessie Smith standards.

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